Search for Snow Leopards with Valerie Parkinson
Experience Overview
Snow leopards are one of the most elusive mammals in the world but in winter they descend from the High Himalaya in search of food. As they inhabit some of the most remote and mountainous regions of Central Asia, the mission to see this enigmatic cat is really more of a pilgrimage. Other rare high-altitude wildlife and isolated Himalayan Buddhist communities only add to this quest’s allure. The itinerary varies slightly by departure date to fit in the different festivals. All departures are led by specialist Himalaya trekking guide Valerie Parkinson.
Valerie won Best Tour Leader 2021 in the prestigious Wanderlust World Guide Awards.
Valerie was born by the seaside in Blackpool, UK, and spent much of her younger days walking with her parents in the Lake District. After finishing her studies, Valerie worked in Germany and Switzerland, until 1984 when she took a break that would change her life forever. She travelled to India for a three-week trek through Kashmir and Ladakh and found her spiritual home in the High Himalaya. She has spent the rest of her life leading treks (and bike trips) in the Himalayan region and her knowledge of the local culture, religion, art and wildlife is second to none. Her enthusiasm for trekking developed into climbing. In 2008, she became the first British woman to summit the 26,781ft (8,163m) tall Mount Manaslu without the use of supplementary oxygen and she attempted Everest in 2009. Over the years, Valerie has been instrumental in setting up and running Himalayan Community Projects, which now operates through the Exodus Travels Foundation.
Profile
— Accommodation: 7 Classic nights (hotels), 6 Simple nights (5 full-service camping, 1 homestay) — Seven days of wildlife spotting on foot — Group normally 5 to 16, plus leader and appropriate staff — Altitude maximum: 14,930ft (4,550m); average: 12,470ft (3,800m) — Maximum sleeping altitude: 12,795ft (3,900m) — Travel on foot, by jeep and two internal flights — Festival visited varies by departure date — All departures led by Valerie Parkinson
At a Glance
— Accommodation: 7 Classic nights (hotels), 6 Simple nights (5 full-service camping, 1 homestay) — Seven days of wildlife spotting on foot — Group normally 5 to 16, plus leader and appropriate staff — Altitude maximum: 14,930ft (4,550m); average: 12,470ft (3,800m) — Maximum sleeping altitude: 12,795ft (3,900m) — Travel on foot, by jeep and two internal flights — Festival visited varies by departure date — All departures led by Valerie Parkinson
Trip For You
This trip is rated Activity Level 3 (Moderate). For more information on our trip gradings please visit the Activity Level Guidelines page. If you have any queries about the difficulty of the trip please do not hesitate to contact us.
It is an adventurous tour and you need to be flexible in your approach. It takes place in winter when Ladakh is cut off from the rest of the world by road and temperatures drop well below freezing point. The hotel in Leh is simple but comfortable and has central heating. Out of Leh, conditions are more basic. Five nights are spent at a base camp, which consists of two-person tents, a dining tent with tables, chairs, solar lights and heaters, and local long-drop toilets. There is a full camp crew and cooks, who look after us. One night is spent in a Ladakhi house, which is heated with a wood-burning stove. While out spotting, we have professional wildlife spotters to guide us and one spotting scope for every five clients.
The tour is designed to maximise the chance of spotting a snow leopard and means you need to be flexible. We may need to adjust or change the itinerary at short notice should snow conditions or other adverse or local conditions deem it wise to do so.
What makes this trip challenging is the weather conditions in Ladakh at this time of year. The walking distances each day are moderate. Most of the walking is optional dependent on your enthusiasm for tracking animals each day.
Internal flights to Leh are operated throughout winter when the weather is clear. Delays and cancellations cannot be ruled out.
If you are prepared to be flexible and patient and have a spirit of adventure then this is a magnificent trip into one of the world’s best-kept secrets.
The leader for all departures is Valerie Parkinson, a woman with a real spirit for adventure and a great love for the wilderness of Ladakh.
Group Description
All departures are led by Valerie Parkinson, who has spent the last 35 years leading groups in Ladakh and other parts of the Himalaya.
She is supported by local guides/spotters, who are experts on the local wildlife. A full camping crew, including cook and assistants, are also available.
Luggage is carried from the roadhead to base camp by Jeep or mules. You only need to carry your backpack when we are out spotting. It is possible to hire a porter locally to carry any heavy camera gear. Details are in other sections of these Trip Notes.
Eating Drinking
All breakfasts are included and all food is included in Ladakh. In Leh, the food is a mix of Indian, Tibetan, Chinese and Continental. On trek, we provide a full breakfast including porridge, cereals, eggs and toast and a choice of hot drinks. Lunch is a packed hot lunch consisting of rice and chapattis, vegetables, tuna and cheese, which is carried for us. Dinners are mostly pasta, rice or potato based and a mixture of Indian, Continental and Chinese cuisines. In the afternoon, hot drinks and biscuits are served and, in the daytime, camp staff bring us hot drinks while we are out spotting.
Drinking water
Staying hydrated is important when undertaking any physical activity. However, we strongly encourage you not to buy bottled water as this contributes to the growing problem of plastic pollution in India
On trek, the cooks collect and boil drinking water from the mountain streams and fill up your water bottles for you, but you may need to collect water during the day and may wish to use your own water purification treatment as well. Purification tablets can be an economical way to treat your water, most taking between 30 minutes to one hour to purify one litre of water and are easy to used in water bladders/hydration packs. Purification tablets which contain chlorine dioxide are reported not to leave an obvious taste as other tablets may.
We suggest you may like to bring a reusable bottle with a wide opening and use a Steripen to treat any non-boiled water. A Steripen is a handheld UV water purifier – small, lightweight and battery powered, so easy to pack. It’s quick to use, far more effective than purification tablets, and the water is ready immediately. It’s fine to use a Steripen on non-boiled water so long as it isn’t cloudy or full of sediment (which is uncommon in these regions).
Steripens are widely stocked on Amazon, outdoor shops and other online retailers; look for the latest models but avoid USB charging ones. Models that take lithium batteries are best as they last longer, especially in cold conditions.
Transportation
For transfers in Delhi, we use either taxis or private buses (during busy times such as morning rush hour, taxis are preferable to negotiate the busy narrow streets). For sightseeing in Ladakh, we use jeeps.
The flights to and from Leh are on one of the internal airlines operating in India. Please note, flights to and from Leh operate subject to weather. Flights can be cancelled and you should be aware of this.
Joining Instructions
Key information
Start hotel: Hotel Regent Grand, 2/6, Pusa Rd, opposite Metro Pillar No. 167, Block 2, East Patel Nagar, Karol Bagh, New Delhi, Delhi 110008, India
Phone: +91 11 4601 1111
Recommended arrival time: You can arrive at any time today. There will be a welcome briefing in the evening, but if you miss it the leader will update you separately.
Airport: Indira Gandhi International Airport (DEL)
Getting to the start hotel
The start hotel is approximately 35 minutes’ drive from the airport. Exodus provides free arrival transfers to the start hotel from the airport for all customers. If you would like further information on joining this trip, please speak to your sales representative.
Catching your return flight
Exodus provides free departure transfers for all customers to Indira Gandhi International Airport (DEL) from the end hotel.
Leh flight delays
Leh Airport can sometimes experience adverse weather conditions and fog, which can occasionally cause flights to be delayed or cancelled. If booking your own flights, we advise you to book your international flight home from Delhi departing no sooner than mid‐afternoon/evening on the last day of the itinerary. Please also be aware that should you miss your international flight as a result of delays from Leh, your insurance may not cover you for any additional expenses incurred.
Weather Information
Ladakh in winter is very cold. From January to March, the days can be sunny but there is a chill in the air. January is the coldest month. By March, the days can be up to 7C (45F). The early mornings, evenings and nights are extremely cold. You must be prepared for temperatures well below freezing. Daytime temperatures in Leh and on trek are approximately -10C to 6C (14F to 43F). It is a very dry cold in Ladakh and we can expect sunny weather with a windchill. Nightly temperatures can be -10C to -25C (14F to -13F).
There is usually snow around from January to March. You must be adequately equipped and prepared to deal with the cold on this trip. Please read the equipment section thoroughly.
In Delhi, the weather is mild with daytime temperatures up to 15C (59F).
Spending Money
There is not a lot to spend money on, apart from lunches and dinners in Delhi. Allow approximately 6,230 rupees (US$75) for meals in Delhi. The hotel in Leh sometimes has beer and cold drinks. Safe boiled water is provided for drinking.
If you have heavy camera gear or would like your camera gear to be carried for the trek, it is possible to hire a special porter to carry your camera pack and help with the camera. The cost is 10,500 rupees (US$126) for the six days out of Leh. Please let us know if you would like us to arrange a special porter for you at least four weeks before departure/when booking; this must be booked in advance but paid for locally in India.
India has very good opportunities for shopping, especially for locally made goods. During your trip, it is highly likely your local guides will take you to emporiums and workshops where these goods are made. Many people find this a great opportunity to buy local handicrafts, silk, jewellery and carpets. Guides often assume visitors want to go shopping, it is very much part of the culture, but if you do not wish to go, please make this clear to your local guide at the time.
Tipping
Tipping is customary in India and usually expected. Tipping can often be an awkward affair, especially when in an unfamiliar country where you are not sure when or how much to tip. As such, your tour leader will offer to arrange and look after a group tipping kitty, which will be used to tip hotel staff, local sightseeing guides, drivers and any other support staff used throughout your trip. Your leader will suggest how much to contribute, depending on group size, but it is usually around 6,500 rupees (approximately US$80) total per person for this trip. At any time during the trip, your leader will happily show you an account of how the kitty is being distributed. Please note, for smaller groups the leader may have to collect more than the above amount.
Tipping of leaders is not included in the kitty and is at your own discretion. If you wish to show your appreciation a tip of around 1,800-2,800 rupees (US$20-US$35) per person would be appreciated. By definition, gratuities are not something that can be included in the tour price.
Highlights
— Chance to see the rare, elusive snow leopard — Wonderful winter walking in mountainous Ladakh, when it is cut off from the rest of the world — Visit ancient monasteries and attend a colourful monastic festival with masked dancers — Enjoy a homestay night and traditional meal with a friendly Ladakhi family — Look for lynx, blue sheep, wolves, bearded vultures, red foxes, Himalayan griffin vultures and golden eagles
Trip Details
Product Code: 4363
Tour Type: Small Group
Accommodation: Moderate
Transport: of this.
Guide Language: English
Tour Operator:
Exodus Travel
Supplier Code: TGL
Starts: Delhi, India
Finishes: Delhi, India
Duration: 14 days
Departures: Not Guaranteed
Physical Rating:
Average
Includes
— All breakfasts, 10 lunches and 10 dinners — All accommodation — All transport and listed activities — Tour leader throughout — Free arrival and departure transfers for everyone (in Delhi) — Specialist wildlife guideAccommodation
Hotels, camping and homestayIn Delhi, we use a hotel with air-conditioned rooms. In Leh, we stay in a hotel close to the local market and town centre. There is wifi in Leh; however, there is no mobile coverage for international phones in Ladakh. The trek itself is on a full-service camping basis, meaning our camp staff put up and dismantle the tents, cook, and do all the camp chores. You need only carry your backpack for the day. We use two-person tents, which have enough room inside for your kitbags and include a mattress, sheet, pillow, blanket, and a hot water bottle at night. We also have a dining tent with table, folding chairs and a heater for use during the evenings. No running water is available while camping. The camp staff collect stream water or melt snow to provide bowls of warm water (to wash with). We spend one night in Rumbak village, where we stay in a traditional Ladakhi house. The dining room and bedrooms have a small wood-burning stoves, and a generator is normally available at the homestay to charge your electronic devices. For both the homestay and camping, there will be a basic local long-drop toilet and dining room available. If you require a single room in Delhi and Leh and a single tent while camping there is a single supplement. Please note, single rooms are not available in the homestay. Worth knowing At the homestay you may be sleeping on a mattress on the floor. The bedrooms have thick mattresses and you can take your sleeping bag from the camp.
Price
Price per person: (Double Occupancy) CAD $6,365 ($455 /day)
Itinerary
The adventure begins in Delhi. You are free today to explore this buzzing city or rest after your flight; rooms may not be available until noon but it is often earlier than this. There is usually a welcome briefing in the hotel lobby this evening. Accommodation: Hotel Regent Grand (or similar)
Usually, we have an early start for the flight to Leh. We may have to leave the hotel around 3am and drive to the airport for the very early morning (but highly spectacular) flight over the snow-capped peaks of the Himalaya, which are incredibly beautiful in winter. Landing in Leh, the temperature drops dramatically and we need our down jackets at the airport. If the weather is good and the flight goes on time, we should be in Leh for breakfast. The rest of the day is free to relax and acclimatise to the altitude (11,485ft/3,500m). In the morning, we rest and catch up on sleep. In the afternoon, we have a gentle orientation walk around Leh and its bazaars. Accommodation: Mahey Retreat (or similar)
The activities for this day depend on your departure date. Each year, the timing of the monastic festivals change and so the itinerary is flexible to ensure you can attend this time-honoured tradition. You either attend the festival or visit the monasteries on Day 3. Please note, the arrangements below are for 2024 departures. Once a year, every monastery in Ladakh has a festival where the monks dress in elaborate brocade and silk costumes and re-enact century-old stories of the Tibetan Buddhist religion. People come from all over Ladakh to the festivals and these are a great social as well as religious occasion. The whole day is spent at the festival and, in the evening, we return to our hotel in Leh. If not attending a festival on this day, we visit the most important monasteries in the Indus Valley. First, we drive just over 30 minutes to Shey, once the residence of the Ladakhi royal family. Below the old palace ruins is a small temple containing a two-storey gilded statue of Buddha. From Shey, we walk across the fields to Tikse, spotting birds en route. Set on a hill, it is one of the most impressive gompas in Ladakh. It has several temples, one of which contains a superb statue of the Future Buddha. We then drive to Stakna, a small but friendly monastery perched atop a huge rock. In the late afternoon, we return to Leh. Festival attendance – land only start dates 19-20 February 2024: Stok Festival on Day 3 Accommodation: Mahey Retreat (or similar)
Today we leave Leh and drive across the Indus towards Jinchen. We follow the road past Phe to the entrance of the impressive Rumbak Gorge. We leave the cars near a bridge and our trail takes us up into the narrow gorge and we start our search for evidence of snow leopards and blue sheep. We camp tonight at our base camp at Rumbak Sumdo (12,470ft/3,800m). Accommodation: Full-service camping
Today we trek back to Jinchen, where we meet our transport and drive back to the relative comforts of our hotel in Leh. Accommodation: Mahey Retreat (or similar)
See Day 3 for full details of activities and festival dates. This information includes which day your departure attends the monastic festival. Accommodation: Standard hotel
We have an early start for the flight back to Delhi. The rest of the day is free in Delhi for individual shopping or sightseeing. Accommodation: Hotel Regent Grand (or similar)
We have a free day in Delhi in case of any delays in the flight from Leh. If we fly to Delhi on schedule, today is free for individual sightseeing. You may want to visit Old Delhi with the magnificent Red Fort and Jami Masjid. Humayun’s Tomb (a forerunner to the Taj Mahal) is worth a visit. In New Delhi, there is India Gate and Parliament House. Delhi also has a wealth of interesting shops and markets. An optional day trip to Agra to see the Taj Mahal can be arranged by your leader who will provide details and prices (not available on Fridays, as the Taj Mahal is closed). Accommodation: Hotel Regent Grand (or similar)
The tour ends after breakfast today and we begin our return journeys home. Alternatively, if you’d like a little more adventure, consider joining our five-day Golden Triangle extension. Encompassing Delhi, Jaipur and Agra, the trip is a whirlwind of culture, taking in the Taj Mahal, Red Fort of Akbar and much more.
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Tour Operator
Exodus Travel
It’s all about adventure That is what Exodus was founded upon 50 years ago, and what the company is still all about. Discovering countries, cultures, environments, cities, mountain ranges, deserts, coasts and jungles; exploring this amazing planet we all live on. At Exodus, we know what makes you tick when it comes to holidays. It’s a desire shared by so many others. A yearning to visit new places and come home with a real sense of what they’re all about. This means delving into local traditions, cultures, cuisine, lifestyles – anything that contributes to its unique identity. At the same time, we always remember that we are only guests. So we travel courteously and respectfully, in smaller groups to minimise our impact, to ensure that every Exodus holiday is a beneficial experience for everyone involved. This is a philosophy we take with us around the world, helping you reach some incredible destinations on 500 itineraries across over 90 separate countries. We also strive to provide as much flexibility and choice as we possibly can, making it simple for you to experience a very different holiday. Exodus started life on 4 February 1974 when two friends got together to provide an overland truck to travel to the Minaret of Jam, deep in the heart of the Hindu Kush, the most inaccessible of the world’s great monuments. See our history page for more details about how we began and how we have grown over the past 50 years. Never travelled with Exodus before? Visit our New to Exodus page for some useful, first-timer information.
In Business Since 1974
Reviews
Phillip Dixon - Traveled, February 2024
Finding the ghost of the mountains This is my second time to Ladakh for snow leopard spotting and both times have been incredible. The landscape, people and wildlife are incredible and matched by the dedication of Valerie and her team to ensure you enjoy your time here and have the best wildlife spotting opportunities. It can get cold and you should pay careful attention to the trip notes, bring plenty of layers and be prepared to trek and work for your sightings, but those sightings are the stuff of magic. The homestay and festival visit are a great extra to the wildlife too, giving you an insight into local life and culture. Lastly the food provided by the local team is excellent and plentiful, with Johnny the chef’s culinary delights being worth the trip evenif you didn’t have the wildlife. Most Inspirational Moment Seeing a mother snow leopard with her two yearling cubs hunting and caring for her family. Thoughts on Group Leader Valerie is simply peerless in her abilities to lead this trip and her passion for Ladakh. She was simply the best and a big feature in our success and the group having such a great time on expedition. Advice for Potential Travellers Ensure you have a suitable sleeping bag and many layers of clothes rather than improvising with a 3 season bag or one or two bulky layers. The weather can go from warm in the sun when trekking to very cold as the sun disappears. Your enjoyment depends on you being comfortable in both. Suggestions Both snow leopard trips I have done have been magical and anyone wishing to see a snow leopard would not find a better team to help them achieve that dream
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/15/2024
Kathryn Long - Traveled, February 2023
Loads of Snow Leopards An amazing time spent in Ladakh amongst stunning scenery and the local people. We were incredibly lucky to see 6 snow leopards in total thanks to the incredible skills of the spotters. The time spent in Delhi and Leh made an interesting contrast to the mountain wilderness. Most Inspirational Moment The snow leopard sitings. Thoughts on Group Leader Valerie was a fantastic leader and also a great friend to the local people. Advice for Potential Travellers Definitely hire the really warm sleeping bags and down jackets from Trekhire (who will deliver to anywhere in the UK). It is cold in the mountains in February!
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/21/2023
M B - Traveled, February 2023
Search for snow leaopards Winter trip in Ladakh to search for snow leopards. Amazing scenery , saw snow leoaprds on 3 consecutive days , also other wildlife. Tough going on occasions and lots of concentration required walking on frozen rivers, snowy icy paths or loose shale . Most Inspirational Moment Seeing the snow leopards , albeit through spotting scopes . Completing some tough walks at altitude and cold temperatures. Advice for Potential Travellers Delhi airport arrivals - painfully slow immigration procedure , over 2 hours before being cleared and then collecting luggage. In camp - very cold at night so check if extra blankets / duvets can be hired from local homestay to offset cold ( even with a good sleeping bag temps of minus 23 in a tent at night not to be disregarded ). Wear lots of layers as once snow leopards spotted you then wait for hours to see what they get upto. Standing still means you chill down quickly , also when sun sets late afternoon the temp plummtes. Delhi airport departure to UK - make sure you have copy of itinerary . Airport security (Army) outside will deny you entry to terminal unless you have passport AND proof of flight , either on line checkin screen shots / boarding pass ( even with online check in no boarding pass issued until inside terminal, wifi unavailable to show online checkin ) etc. If someone already inside terminal they may be able to get printed itinerary from checkin desk ,showing name of passenger but then that person unable to leave terminal to pass itinerary to army security guard outside plus waiting passenger. Makes for a stressful time.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/19/2023
Chris Denning - Traveled, March 2023
Wow, simply wow…! With the pandemic, I had to wait 4 years to go on this adventure. My expectations had a long time to build up and yet they were all exceeded. This trip combines incredible cold mountain desert terrain in the heart of the Himalayas with unique wildlife and crossroads of many cultures. Thanks to the hard work of the spotters who go out at 6 am every morning, a cook (Johnny) who kept our bellies full and a truly inspiring leader (Val), we saw 6 snow leopards, 2 wolves, 1 fox, countless mountain goats, golden eagles and so on. Combined with the amazing frozen landscape and culture, this makes for a truly unique experience and long lasting memories. Thanks to the whole team for something really special. Most Inspirational Moment On our first full day in the high mountains, we saw a female snow leopard with her two cubs, which were about 18 months old. The terrain they were crossing was insanely steep and yet the cubs started to play fight - what a privilege to see a window into their world. The golden eagles were numerous too, and some kind enough to do low level flybys. Thoughts on Group Leader In one word - inspiring, but equally I could say passionate, fun, friendly, knowledgeable, professional, experienced, calm, helpful, kind, compassionate, interesting, engaging, interactive, inclusive Val’s ‘bedtime stories’ were truly inspiring - what an amazing woman reaching the summit of an 8000+ meter peak without oxygen and being within a whisker of the summit of Everest, yet knowing when to call time to save lives. Val’s knowledge of the region is encyclopaedic so if history and culture lights you up, you’ll enjoy hours of chat Advice for Potential Travellers Three bits of advice: 1) This trip takes you to the realm of the snow leopard. We saw 6 snow leopards and 2 wolves across 4 days, at a distance of between 500 and 1200 meters. Do not expect a zoo or petting farm, but do bring good binoculars or powerful camera lenses (1000mm equivalent or more). The spotters have superb scopes and will happily take smartphone pictures down the eye piece - they are good at this..! 2) The wildlife is truly wild. Depending on where sightings are made may mean short or long / challenging treks at altitude (3800 to 4500 meters) are needed. This is very different to African safaris where spotting is easy and close… so bring realism and adventure into your expectations 3) Camping for 5 nights at 3900 meters in temperatures of down to -25oC is hard unless you have the right kit - such as merino thermals, multiple layers, down jacket and expedition sleeping bag (which can be hired). I often wore 7 layers in the evening and early morning. Suggestions No, just thanks for an amazing trip..! I will process my photos and then will be happy to share
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/15/2023
Angela Cox - Traveled, March 2020
Wildlife Documentary in Real Time Watching snow leopards on a TV in the comfort of your living room may get you close but you cannot feel the environment. By simply being there you can start to feel, appreciate and understand the very essence of the environment they live in and the remarkable way the local population and wildlife interact. ‘in Search of the Snow Leopards’ is the title of the trip but it is also a trip in search of many things. If ever there was one journey where the multifaceted aspects of geography came together – this is it. The sightings of the snow leopards being the pinnacle. Most Inspirational Moment Simply being there. Drawing the threads together of previous trips to Ladakh. The very first sightings of the snow leopards. The drama of the landscape that provided the backdrop to these sightings. The opportunity to see the snow leopards in a variety of situations from a mating couple, solitary ones and mothers with cubs. The chance to engage with the local people as they openly shared their festivals with us and the sheer entrancement and enjoyment of villagers at the Stok Festival with masked dancers and the Oracles. All the smaller moments that made this trip - Exhilarating' - feeling the cold that draws the snow leopards down to lower altitudes at this time of year. Camping and the early morning calls from the team to muster behind the scopes which is the quickest I have ever crawled out of warm sleeping bag in such cold temperatures. The optional extras that put a real perspective on the challenges of living in such an environment - felt snow leopards from the local villagers - even each one of these having its own character, the ice stupas made by villagers to create a sustainable water supply for crops, winding up the road from Leh in a taxi as opposed to cycling up. The amazing opportunities we had to see so many snow leopards due to the expertise of the spotters. The trek and camp crew who always approach things with their great sense of humour and a smile. They are constantly in the background, and whilst I congratulated myself that I had survived the night in the cold, it is down to the team who make it all happen. Simply being there. Finishing off with high tea at The Imperial!!! They do a lovely scone and provide surreal setting to end the trip. Thoughts on Group Leader I have never had a bedtime story of local tales read to the group by the leader in the warmth of the mess tent after a lovely supper - so soporific that snuffles can occasionally be heard from the darker corners!!!! Valerie makes it happen. She encapsulates everything positive about the moment. Everyone has a their own personal reasons for venturing on this specific trip, purely to see snow leopards, to capture the perfect photograph of this elusive creature, to engage with the opportunity to see a wide variety of animals, to go to a place few go to and especially at a perceived 'difficult time of year', to engage with everything the region has to off - the reasons are personal and with Valerie your own personal needs and wants are engaged. Through travelling, living and working with the locals and the environment over several decades you benefit from all that she has done and the understanding she has of the area. All the hard work has been done by Valerie and you can get the best of the area and still feel like you are taking ownership of your own experience. She is dedicated to the multifacted nature of the area. There is an honest openness to share her many years of experience, knowledge, respect and dedication to the region. Valerie allows people to be who they are and goes with ease between being a leader and a friend to ensure everyone is safe and most importantly has a 'trip of a lifetime'. Advice for Potential Travellers Just do it!!! This very trip kept playing in my mind during the coronavirus lockdown of 2020 and I am so glad that I bit the bullet and booked the last place on this trip. Memories of the sightings, the landscape, the local people, the Exodus crew and fellow travelers kept me company during the months of solitude that followed our return. READ the trip notes and make sure you have all of the essential gear - it is a unique environment and there are challenges re the cold and altitude but by following the advice on the trip notes you will be able to enjoy and engage with every aspect of the trip. Go with an open mind - it is a trip of wildlife, trekking, culture, opportunities that arise that can't be planned for. For example one of the days 'scheduled' to see Leh at the start was 'diverted' to spotting the mating snow leopard couple. Don't understimate the cold - take responsibility for your own warmth and comfort. An excellent sleeping bag is essential and down jacket - there are excellent ones to hire through the trip notes if you don't want to spend loads of money. Weight of luggage on the flight to Leh is limited there are various ways to get over this so look at this before travelling. You don't need a change of clothes for every day but lots of layers. Even though it is cold the sun will burn so protection is essential - sunscreen and sunhat. Footwear suited to the environment is necessary - see trip notes. Enjoy the bedtime stories - sets you up for pleasant dreams!!! Book a porter to help carry your extra equipment - running to see the snow leopards early in the morning meant that those that had heavy camera gear were 'good to go' and spot and take photographs as soon as they got to the spotting platform. Totally trust the team with your phone - they were amazing at getting the shots of the snow leopards using your iphones/camera phone - using the scopes - people at home think I am a wizard with an iphone camera!!! Take advantage of some of the things to do in Leh and Delhi. Hiring a local taxi in Leh took us up into the hills and the local ice stupas. Delhi was the opportunity to take part in a tour run by a street children's charity. Suggestions This is a region that I have been to a couple of times, but never in winter and again it did not disappoint. The trip is unique in so much as the snow leopards don't appear at this altitude all year round - that is the reason to book it. If you are looking for real sustainable tourism then this is your chance - it is local, determined by the timings of nature and most importantly a chance to experience a Himalayan winter without going to remote extremes. It is a trip of a lifetime but I think I will join the 'cat population' and have nine lives so I can go again and it will still be the trip of a lifetime. Enjoy anticipation of considering going, booking, preparing, participating and most importantly reflecting on your return. It is one trip that will never leave you.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 06/21/2020
Deb Giffin - Traveled, March 2020
Excellent trip A very well balanced and well organised trip – a very good combination of a little time in Delhi, time at a festival and of course looking for snow leopards and other wildlife. We were incredibly lucky to see lots of snow leopards along with lynx, blue sheep, eagles and a mountain hare. Loved the festival too – lots of colour and a fascinating experience. The crew were efficient, knowledgeable and helpful – in fact, really couldn’t have hoped for more. The hot water bottles at night were particularly appreciated! Quality of the hotel in Leh was great too. It was a shame we had to miss out on the homestay but coronavirus meant that we were asked not to do it by the local people (a very fair request). I found that where required Valerie was great at allowing flexibility during the trip and, all in all, I don’t think it could have been better organised or executed. Just make sure you have lots and lots of very warm and appropriate clothing as it’s really cold – and apparently it was warmer on our trip than it normally is! Most Inspirational Moment Seeing the pair of snow leopards on the first day. Thoughts on Group Leader Excellent Advice for Potential Travellers Factor 50 sun cream and as many warm clothes as you can cram in your bag.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 04/13/2020
Iain Roberts - Traveled, February 2019
Stunning This was a wonderful trip, well organised and lead by the wonderful Valerie Parkinson. We had a great mix of people, who all got on together, and this does really help when your trekking in extreme conditions. The hard work put in by the spotters, porters, cooks and helpers was gratefully appreciated. No task was too much trouble, and always done with a lovely smile. These guys certainly earn their money. Most Inspirational Moment The whole trip from start to finish was good fun, but seeing a couple of snow leopards was the highlight of the trip. The wonderful scenery. We had 36 hours of snow, but when the sun came out and seeing the snow capped Himalayas in all there glory, was truly magnificent. Thoughts on Group Leader Valerie is a natural. Laid back, well organised, and was great fun to be with. You can see the pleasure she gets from being in the Himalayas, and helping the local people. Advice for Potential Travellers Do take the warmest of sleeping bag. We had very low temp. so everything does freeze during the night, so if you need to keep anything warm, just put in your sleeping bag. My face wipes, contact lens solution where all frozen after the first night. I have to admit, that over the six days camping, I only changed once, and probably only washed once, but everybody is in the same boat, so don't worry. As we had a lot of snow, I was really glad to have a pair of micro spikes. They made a huge difference trekking on the snow and ice. They give you a lot more confidence, but do buy decent ones ( Yak Trak ) as cheaper ones will fall apart after one day. Suggestions The home stay was a welcome relief after a few nights camping. The people in the mountain village are really wonderful. Nice to be in a room with a log burning fire, and to get up to a hot cup of tea and freshly baked bread.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/21/2019
Neil & Carole Bowman & Mahoney - Traveled, February 2018
Snow leopards aplenty! This was our second visit to Hemis NP in search of the snow leopard. Our visit in 2011 produced one very brief sighting. On this return visit we were amply rewarded with several lengthy sightings on four of the six days we were there, giving us the chance to view them stalking prey (blue sheep), resting and ridge-walking. Much of our success was due to the incredible skill and dedication of our Ladakhi spotters. We cannot thank them enough. We were also priveleged to have good sightings of a pair of wolves, a herd of urials, picas, woolly hares and several large birds of prey including two Eagle Owls roosting and flying at dusk. Apart from wildlife watching, there were very good cultural experiences too – visiting monasteries, attending a Buddhist masked dance festival at Matho Monastery and a welcoming homestay in the traditional Ladakhi village of Rumbak. Most Inspirational Moment Seeing one of the leopards, after resting, stand up then roll around on the ground with paws in the air! We were told this helps camouflage its coat and hide its scent from its prey. Thoughts on Group Leader As we have said many times, Valerie Parkinson is second to none in all respects! Advice for Potential Travellers If you have visited the Himalaya during the summer months, we would highly recommend the contrasting experience of winter in Ladakh. There are very few other tourists, the scenery is different but more spectacular for its frozen rivers and snow-covered slopes. Yes, it can be very cold, but it can also be very bright and sunny, so, as long as you have the appropriate kit, there should be no problem. And don't take too many changes of clothes! Do as the local Ladakhis do in winter..... Suggestions Again, thanks to our Ladakhi team who looked after us with great care and thoughtfulness - nothing was too much trouble for them - and, of course, Valerie Parakinson.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/21/2018
Colin Kirkby - Traveled, February 2016
Cold Ladakh In spite of the temperature of Ladakh (very cold) we were well looked after by our leader Valerie and the trekking team. Most Inspirational Moment The magnificent views of the Himalayan mountain scenery. Thoughts on Group Leader Excellent, experienced and knowledgeable of the region. Advice for Potential Travellers Make sure you are prepared for the cold and take more warm clothing than on other treks
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/28/2016
Gordon Tyrrall - Traveled, February 2016
In Search Of The Snow Leopard I felt privileged to see this unique part of the world – its awesome magnificence,its wildlife,and its culture.The Buddhist ceremonies at Matho were fascinating and I appreciated the fact that it was nota show put on for tourists,(of which there were very few) but for the ladakhi locals.Once we began trekking and camping,the environment revealed its beauty,but also its harshness and austerity – the cold and the altitude were a challenge for most of us I think,although we were very well catered for by our ladakhi guides and porters. Most Inspirational Moment Seeing the Rumbak valley.Seeing wolves and a lynx. Thoughts on Group Leader Valerie was an excellent group leader - tougher than any of us,and always on hand to give advice. Advice for Potential Travellers The obvious thing - take good cold weather gear,especially sleeping bag and down jacket - however,you dont really need great big waterproof walking boots as the trails are mainly dry and dusty.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/22/2016
Deb Bradley - Traveled, February 2015
In Search of the Snow Leopard This is an amazing and very spiritual place. The scenery is absolutely spectacular. The stars are unrivaled. The hiking is technical and challenging, and makes you focus in a way that is very rejuvenating. The homestay was a wonderful experience. The crew that we had while camping were amazing, and we were always in awe when it felt like we had hiked so far away, and then two of our guys would show up with tea or lunch!! Most Inspirational Moment I have to say although it was very brief, the most inspirational moment was catching a glimpse of a snow leopard in the wild. What an incredible animal, and I feel very lucky to have seen it in it's home. Thoughts on Group Leader Chosphel Sonam was excellent. He has a good sense of humor and made sure everything was done for our trip to run smoothly. Advice for Potential Travellers Of course you want to see a snow leopard in the wild. But it is certainly not a guarantee. We didn't see one until the last day, and even then it was just a few seconds. I was actually surprised at how desolate the place is. Besides snow leopards, I thought we would see other wildlife. We did see signs of wildlife, but really saw very little. The scenery and experience is worth it, but if you are expecting to see a lot of wildlife you will be disappointed. Also, it is really, really cold at night so take the absolute best sleeping bag you can!!!!
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/24/2015
Anonymous - Traveled, June 2013
IN SEARCH OF THE SNOW LEOPARD A memorable winter holiday, superbly organised and led. We went for the winter walking, the Buddhist monasteries, Leh out of season and of course the snow leopards, but even had we seen none of the latter this holiday would have been a delight. Most Inspirational Moment The Matho Festival, when, after a day of golden sunshine and intense blue skies, joyous crowds and masked dancers, we watched one of the state oracles appear right in front of us and then leap to the rooftop wall and stand, silhouetted against the backdrop of snow and moon, mountain and crag. And I loved walking on the frozen river! And I loved hearing wolves howling round the valley in the night!And oh, the starry starry skies! Thoughts on Group Leader Valerie Parkinson is, without doubt, the best leader we have had on a group tour. Her knowledge and skills were excellent, her care for the group was superb, and her care for individuals within the group was wonderful. Advice for Potential Travellers Take the best cold-weather camping equipment you can afford to buy. We took Rab Expedition down bags, and down sleeping mattresses with built in pumps. Neither of us were cold at night though the tents were thin and the temperatures very very cold. We also took microspikes for our boots and these made walking on the frozen river a real pleasure.In Leh we were all given the opportunity to have our own guide/porter (for an additional payment). We decided to do this and it made the holiday even more special. We could go where we liked, when we liked because of having our own guide, who kept in touch by radio with the main group guides so could get us to snow leopard sightings very quickly. We usually plan our own holidays and enjoy being on our own, so this was wonderful for us, like a tailormade within a group holiday. By the way the group members were all very very pleasant and friendly. Suggestions We saw four out of the nine snow leopards in the area. An amazing tally, considering the number of people whom we met who had seen none, and that, in some cases, on more than one visit. However we would have loved the holiday even had we had no sightings! And would we return - well yes we might, we would try to have extra time in Leh, and we would love to take our grandson with us.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 07/21/2013
Anonymous - Traveled, February 2013
IN SEARCH OF THE SNOW LEOPARD A very rewarding trip to one of the more remote parts of the Himalaya, with great scenery, a great crew, and overall a great experience! Most Inspirational Moment Hearing first-hand about the work of the Indian Wildlife Service, and how the local population are protecting the snow leopard in Hemis rather than persecuting it as in other parts of its range. Support for local communities, in the form of homestays with local families, as well as employing local guides and staff, is a central part of the ethos behind this trip. As a result of this support, and encouraged by the revenue available from sustainable tourism, poaching in the park has been reduced to zero. In a world of environmental bad news, this is surely an inspiring example of how people and wildlife can coexist for the benefit of both. Thoughts on Group Leader Valerie is a fantastic leader, but it was also brilliant to see how the local guides were so enthusiastic about the wildlife of the park and it was great to see them warm to the different personalities in the group over the course of our stay. Once animals were spotted, the local guides were just as keen to get time at the spotting scopes and take photographs. And they are good at finding the animals. Quite how they can spot a leopard curled up on a ledge high on a rocky mountain side is amazing to the untrained eye. As a result we were treated to several hours of sightings of a number of animals which far exceeded everyone’s expectations. Advice for Potential Travellers Although the trekking days on this trip are neither long nor arduous, extremes of temperature and the effects of altitude can combine to make it more challenging, so I would say that this trip is towards the tougher end of grade B. A super-warm sleeping bag is vital, as is lots of high-factor sunscreen. Suggestions Many of the group, on hearing of a snow leopard sighting, decided to pay for an extra excursion in the park rather than attend the Matho Festival. For me, the festival was a fantastic experience and a highlight of the trip. While acclimatising by ‘gompa stomping' around monasteries may not be to everyone’s taste, visiting a festival is a great opportunity to see first-hand the importance of religion to local life in this part of the Himalaya. Watching the monks entering a deep trance was enthralling, as were their daring runs along the edge of the roof...
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/27/2013
Anonymous - Traveled, March 2013
IN SEARCH OF THE SNOW LEOPARD I’d wanted to go in search of snow leopards and experience a major Tibetan Buddhist festival since reading Peter Mathiesen’s The Snow Leopard while in Lhasa in 1984. This trip exceeded my expectations in every way! Most Inspirational Moment For me there were two amazing moments. The first was at the Buddhist festival at Matho, when after hours of watching masked dancers and musicians, surrounded by expectant crowds of Ladakhis, the oracles appeared and raised the event to a very different level. The second unforgettable moment was when we were sitting on a ridge in the Husing valley and got a message to say that a snow leopard was visible from down in the valley. We sprinted down the mountainside and got to the spot where we saw a snow leopard going up the hillside and over a ridge - but not before he turned round and looked straight at us. This was both something I'd never expected to experience, but had also in some way been waiting for for 30 years. We saw snow leopards on two other occasions: once when stalking (unsuccessfully) a blue sheep; and the other when after watching it sleep, stretch, sleep for hours, it finally roused itself and walked slowly across the mountainside across the valley from us. I managed to switich my camera to video, and the 3 minute film I took is on YouTube. Thoughts on Group Leader Valerie Parkinson is the best leader I've ever had - or could hope to have. Her knowledge and understanding of Ladakh, Tibetan Buddhism, wildlife and 'people' is immense, and she shares it with generosity and enthusiasm. She had lots of difficulties to cope with, and did so with complete professionalism, but also with calmness and reassurance. Advice for Potential Travellers Be prepared to take life very easy when you first arrive in Leh. It's quite an altitude jump from Delhi, and most people need a couple of days to acclimatise. It's cold in winter, so take as good quality warm gear as you can afford. And a set of light-weight crampons (Kahtoola microspikes) was really useful on the frozen rivers. In our group there were people with super cameras and others with compacts. The super cameras produced some amazing photos, and even those with compacts managed to get some shots. But I took a Panasonic Lumix 'bridge' camera (FZ150) which was light, robust and easy to use, and gave me some brilliant photos and video footage. Oh, and snow boots were really good for keeping my feet warm - as we spent a lot of time sitting and standing and waiting. Suggestions If you think this trek might be about suffering, forget it! Even camping up in the mountains you get bed tea and hot water to wash in; huge breakfasts and dinners; lunch served at 14,000 ft; and even a snow leopard cake. So you won't lose any weight!We were extremely lucky to see the snow leopards - but we also saw blue sheep, urials, wooly hares, a red fox, picas, and lammergeyers, golden eagles, griffon vultures, chukars, snow finches and robin accentors. So I'd like to think that I wouldn't have been disappointed even if we hadn't seen any snow leopards. And, in fact, there's a perverse bit of me which wishes we'd just left them as mythical, unseeable creatures of the snow peaks!
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/21/2013
Anonymous - Traveled, February 2013
IN SEARCH OF THE SNOW LEOPARD the trip is amazing, hard going but so rewarding.Valerie parkinson ‘s abillity and personallity are fabulous and she makes the trip easier in some respects,her organisation and easy going nature are a credit to her, and i would say, probably the best guide ive ever had! Most Inspirational Moment my most inspirational moment was easy.....the first time i squeezed the shutter on my first snow leopard...hoping it wasnt going to be my last.....but it just got better!!!1then our final sighting was to become an epic....4.5-5hrs sat watching a majestic male as he walked,stopped,stretched,yawned...walked...all the time....shutter was firing, recording his every move.ive been privilaged to see big cats thru africa and asia, but seeing this wonderful majestic cat is a sight to behold!! Thoughts on Group Leader Valerie parkinson was as prviously stated , probably the best guide ive ever had, Advice for Potential Travellers the only advice that could be passed on, is .....enjoy !!!!!its very hard work scrambling with adrenalin pushing you to get to sightings, then its just amazing!!!on a technical front, i would certainly advise any one else doing this trip to take crampons, as the walks incorporate crossing many frozen streams/rivers . walking poles and gaiters are also necessity.just be prepared for very cold temperatures at night, so the best mat/ sleeping bag would certainly help!!!the advise given from Valerie is priceless.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/12/2013
Anonymous - Traveled, February 2012
IN SEARCH OF THE SNOW LEOPARD This was a trip into a remote area in the winter to search for what we all thought was unattainable. We expected cold, camping at altitude and rough walking. We got all of that but we did not expect hot water bottles every night!! Most Inspirational Moment Surrounded by steep sided snow covered mountains it seemed impossible that anything could live in this terrain , until we saw tracks and scrape marks of a snow leopard. Expectantly scanning the mountainside and intently watching for any unusual movement of blue sheep (snow leopard fodder!), added to the excitement. We all hoped, but no one really expected to see a snow leopard, after all, we all knew that film crews had staked out areas for months before getting footage of them. Then after hot footing it up a steep snowy mountain track, there it was high on the mountainside but visible through binoculars. When it decided to move, the full length of its powerful sleek body and equally long tail was fully shown. We were so priveledged!It was not all about snow leopards though as this area is stunningly beautiful with other plenty of other wildlife and prolific birdlife. However when the second snow leopard was sighted 2 days later, late in the afternoon, with it snowing gently, it just could not get any better!None of this would have been acheived without the experience and knowledge of our superb wildlife guide - Khenrab -he was inspirational! Thoughts on Group Leader Valerie Parkinson was the best!. She had such knowledge of this area and it was obvious she loved being there. The local team and the organisation was brilliant which is why all went so smoothly. Advice for Potential Travellers Take the very warmest sleeping bag, lots of layers and a good pair of binoculars.. The altitude is something to consider as its immediate when you fly into Leh, though this trip gave good opportunity to aclimatise by spending a few days around Leh before moving higher. This is not a holiday with mod cons so don't expect them. Just enjoy the shower when back in Delhi. Suggestions will remember this as one of the most priveledged experiences I have had.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/16/2012
Anonymous - Traveled, January 2012
IN SEARCH OF THE SNOW LEOPARD Very hard, very demanding, very cold, VERY REWARDING. The first view of a snow leopard, like my first encounter with a tiger, was highly emotional and, unashamedly, induced tears ! Most Inspirational Moment That first sighting of one of natures most elusive animals. The terrain is difficult, the camouflage is one of the best in nature, the sighting call from the guide and resultant "fast" hike is heart attack provoking at that altitude but you have to do it and when you see the leopard no city fat cats bonus could buy it ! The homestay was really humbling, why do people live at this level of subsistence ? Why are they so friendly and accommodating when the temperature range is -5 to -20C, the world is white, the only transport available is pony, everything is frozen solid and you have to wear 5 layers of thick woollens to keep warm ? I would have liked another day at the homestay as we didn't have enough time with our host/hostess to get to know them. Thoughts on Group Leader Valerie was excellent. Very experienced and a great judge of individuals and group interactions. With her knowledge of Delhi she was a brilliant guide to one who would have stayed in the hotel for dinner ! Her trekking and climbing experiences showed in the pace she set for acclimatising us in Leh and the practical advice she administered on how to stay warm or recover after a long spell looking for that elusive snow leopard. Many of us suffered during the "holiday" in one way or another and Valerie knew how to cope with each case, how much advice to offer and when to just let us get on with it. Advice for Potential Travellers It is a hard "moderate" and you need to know your own capability and/or listen to advice given by the leader. I hadn't been to altitude before and was lucky in only suffering a little breathlessness and lack of appetite. I'm 63 and only of average fitness but managed to get to all the sitings and viewings but in my own time. There are spare porters/helpers for those like me who needed time or assistance so don't be afraid to ask. Suggestions Would I go again ? To my surprise the answer is not an immediate emphatic no. At my age experiencing this level of hardship came as a bit of a shock to the system but with a good leader and the support of other party members I am beginning to recognise that I survived and, I do believe, actually enjoyed it ! The homestay was inspirational in a different way and I would have liked to see more and get a fuller flavour of village life in the freezer ! So many people have said "I couldn't do that" and 6 months ago I wondered if I had over judged my capability, BUT, with Exodus behind you and the leadership of someone like Valerie, believe me - YOU CAN.As one of lifes 100 things to do before you die I would put this in the top 10.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 02/23/2012
Anonymous - Traveled, February 2011
IN SEARCH OF THE SNOW LEOPARD My overall rating would have been a 5 ‘starrer’, if we had seen a snow leopard. However, despite recent signs (pug marks, scrape areas and scats) all round our camp, we did not see one of these secretive cats. Anyway I had a great time. Most Inspirational Moment I enjoy seeing wild life and going to the diminishing pool of wild places. There were two of us on this tour who felt the same way about wild life. We both understood that the best chance of spotting a snow leopard or ounce was to be as unobtrusive as possible. On one day, we climbed to one of the recommended viewing peaks and sat in almost complete silence for nearly two hours. It was a joy to listen to the snow cocks, the yellow-billed choughs and the Chukkar partridges calling to one another. We saw golden eagles and lammergiers wheeling and circling in the bright blue sky. We heard the blue sheep whistling to each other as they came down to drink at a nearby stream. We were surrounded by snow peaked mountains and it was very beautiful. No ounces but a magical experience for both of us. Thoughts on Group Leader Our leader Sohan was very good. He was friendly, knowledgeable and efficient. I favour using local guides because it helps the local economy and I feel that they get the best out of the local people. It also puts more attention in the conservation of local wild life. However, if there is 'the one' on the tour who demands more attention than the rest of the group, the poor old local guide has to put more effort into satisfying them rather than with the rest of the group. Sohan and all the other guides we had, were excellent but we did have 'that one'. Advice for Potential Travellers This tour is a very interesting one. However, it was very cold. Certainly our night temperatures were possibly nudging -20. You must have the right equipment. Good warm, waterproof boots, a good 5 season sleeping bag with mattress, warm clothing, thermal underwear, gloves, hats and a stick. I normally think walking sticks are a bind because I like to have my hands free for binoculars etc. However, on this tour a stick was essential. Gaiters are useful but I never used my yak-trax. Crossing icy rivers was hazardous and we did fall but putting on and then taking off the yak-trax took up too much effort. Remember the altitudes are high - up to 4200 meters. All exercise was exacting. Remember to take slipper socks for the monastery visits. Those floors and the floors of the hotel in Leh are freezing cold. Suggestions There is a lot to see on this trip. It is exacting with the altitude and extreme cold. I would like to mention that one of the factors I think that we did not see an ounce, was human chatter, laughter and unbelievably, at one point, shouting. One of the cats we were following left the track, possibly because of a local man traveling down the track on his mule from his village. Now these cats are used to that but they are not used to excited, noisy human chatter. There should be more emphasis on silence. I was rather dreading our stay in Delhi having been before. However, we decided to use the metro to get about. The Delhi metro is clean, cheap and very efficient. However, it is very crowded particularly at rush hour. If you use it, make sure that you are not boxed in at your exit station. Move up to the doors well in advance. Do not be afraid to push your way through. Everyone does. Ladies use the 'Ladies Only' carriage at the front of the train to avoid being 'groped'! Take a good map and travel to your site by 'tuk tuk' from the metro station. Good luck.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/17/2011
Dave Farmer - Traveled, March 2020
6 Snow Leopards, two Oracles and a Woolly Rabbit! Ladakh is a beautiful region of Northern India. Add to that the friendly welcome and the variety of wildlife and culture and you have a destination that it would be hard to find fault with. This was my second visit and this time I was there to see Snow Leopards. Except, of course, they’re so rare that the chances of spotting just one would be very low. And indeed spotting just one was impossible – I saw a total of 6 during the 10 days I was there, including relatively close sighting of a mating pair on our first day in the mountains, a mother and her two cubs and a solitary Snow Leopard rolling in the dust to hide its scent before hunting. Our group as a whole saw 12. This amazing tally was due largely to the experience, skill and dedication of the spotting team and our leader, Valerie, who between them took us to the right places at the right time and found the well camouflaged big cats where we may have only seen a buff coloured rock. And let’s not forget the Blue Sheep, Lammageier Vultures, Bearded Griffon, Golden Eagles, Woolly Rabbits, Uriel Goats and Alpine Chough. This is a challenging trip – cold, altitude and remoteness all add to the adventure although its well within the abilities of anyone with the right kits and who has trudged the hills in the UK. But it’s worth it for the experience of the incredible Himalayan landscapes, the unique culture and the amazing flora and fauna. If you have the chance, book the trip that coincides with the Stok Festival, a colourful and spectacular celebration of Tibetan Buddhism in the form of music and dance culminating in the appearance of the village oracles. Most Inspirational Moment There were many inspirational 'stand out' moments for me. These are a few of my personal ones. Watching the mating behaviour of a pair of Snow Leopards; the Oracles in a trance at Stok; having a local ask me if he could take a photo of me and his little daughter; the 'Street Kids' walking tour of Old Delhi. I loved standing outside the tent at 6.30am, watching the mountains light up while drinking a cup of steaming hot black tea. The rush up to the viewing platform when one of the spotters shouted 'Snow Leopard'. One of our crew demonstrating the correct way to slide down a frozen river on a flat stone. Thoughts on Group Leader This is my second trek with Valerie and she proved to be every bit the excellent leader on this trip as she did on the previous one. Knowledgeable, understanding of individual and group needs, Valerie's decades of experience in the region enabled her to be flexible with arrangements and cope with the changes forced on us by the Covid-19 outbreak at the end of our trip. Evenings were spent listening to her tell us about the region, the wildlife and the people. The crew she had picked were excellent and dedicated to the roles they played. They were clearly very loyal to Valerie. Advice for Potential Travellers In general, come prepared for cold weather. The nature of this particular trip means you will be standing around searching for wildlife or viewing and taking photographs so the heat normally generated trekking will quickly go. I found I was wearing a thick down jacket most of the time simply because although the sun can be warm, there is usually a cold breeze in the valleys and much of the time is spent stationary. If you're out all day, as soon as the sun disappears below the mountains the temperature drops very quickly. I wore thick winter socks for the same reason. The terrain underfoot was, in general, no harder than UK hills and a 3 season boot would probably suffice. We didn't need crampons but 'yaktrax' or similar might be useful as we had to cross a couple of frozen rivers. The Exodus kit list is a good starting point; vary it according to your own preference for cold weather. Don't skimp on the sleeping bag as this is your refuge and a good night's sleep is important. You don't need lots of changes of clothing because you don't end up sweating a lot and everyone is in the same situation. Exodus provide top quality spotting scopes (Swarovski) but you might want to bring your own, which can help with spotting and will enable you to digiscope. The nature of our encounters with Snow Leopards meant that big lenses were necessary because of distance and digiscoping would be ideal in these circumstances. Some great photos were taken with scope and mobile phone. Our encounters lasted a while, so a tripod (or at least a monopod) would makes things easier on the arms. But don't forget camera kit to cope with the amazing landscapes, villages and festivals too. Be aware that there is close scrutiny on the internal flights - all our camera kit had to come out of the back packs and was checked by the security people at Dehli before boarding the internal flight. Suggestions Approach this trip with realistic expectations and you won't be disappointed.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 04/13/2020
Phill Dixon - Traveled, February 2020
Snow leopards found If you have ever dreamed of seeing the elusive snow leopard then this is the trip for you. Don’t think about it just book it. Ladakh is an incredible region and you couldn’t ask for a better guide than Valerie. Been there, done that and probably knows the location of every rock on the mountain. As for the area – if you saw nothing but the scenery you would get your moneysworth, however the team scour the countryside for wildlife – with lammegeiers and golden eagles regularly sighted overhead. As for the snow leopards themselves we had 12 sightings – an extraordinarily good year, some were very distant and only visible with the fantastic Swarovski scopes. However we were also lucky enough to get a mother and cubs sighting and a mating pair at distances under 600m – this isn’t a petting zoo – which is clear enough for binoculars and long lens cameras. Photographers with a dslr need to thing 500m or bigger with tripods and teleconverters. It will not be Africa Serengetti encounters, but that makes them even more magical. Failing this kit the guides are adept at taking mobile shots through the spotting scopes – good enough for keepsakes and memories of an incredible trip. It is cold though and involves trekking on rocky trails – so heed the trip notes, get good warm boots and kit and enjoy your complimentary hot water bottle ( after a lovely filling meal) Icing on the cake is the Street Kids tour of Delhi and the inspieational stories of the work done by the charity. Can’t thank Valerie and team enough and gladly go and do it all over again – if she can take the stress of getting my mountain of camera kit through customs. Most Inspirational Moment Seeing a mother and two cubs on the same day we saw a pair of snow leopards above camp. Everyone raced up the hill to the spotting scopes, forgetting the altitude. We were still chatting excitedly over our luck at evening meal, having watched them for 3 hours. Thoughts on Group Leader Valerie is rightfully a legend - she knows everyone and even read us local tales from a book. She lives and breathes the region and that in turn feeds into the group and how good the trip turned out to be. She is also widely respected by the local people and staff, case in point one evening a ranger had his own client with an eye problem - first port of call was Valerie to see what she thought. Advice for Potential Travellers Don't scrimp on a warm sleeping bag, proper boots for the terrain and warm layers. This is not extreme terrain but you will enjoy life a lot more if you are comfortable. Take a small bag to leave in Delhi and another drybag of something to change into when you get bag to Leh. Likelihood is you will be wearing same clothes for daysin camp so just be warm. Suggestions Probably one of the best experiences I have done. I had thought I'd be lucky to see snow leopards once. To have 12 sightings, a lynx and then high tea in The Imperial just made the trip beyond my wildest dreams. Thanks to Valerie, the crew and my camera porter / assitant photographer Chosgun. Without whom the 600mm lens would have travelled up trails a lot slower.
Source: Tour operator Submitted: 03/15/2020
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